New labels may help Bordeaux

 

The crisis afflicting French wine — sales are dropping steadily in overseas markets — affects some regions more than others.

Southern regions, like Languedoc and Roussillon, which offer good wine at low prices, are doing well. But it’s not just a matter of price: Champagne sales are also in good shape. Other regions are coasting along, neither rising nor falling: sales of all styles of Beaujolais are stable.

One of the hardest-hit regions is Bordeaux, perhaps France’s best-known wine region. Bordeaux includes many sub-appellations (like Médoc, Pomerol, Saint-Emilion, Graves, Sauternes), and it’s complicated by various classifications. There’s the 1855 classification of wines (mainly from Médoc) into various ‘Growths’ — First Growth, Second Growth, and so on. There are similar classifications for other Bordeaux appellations, and also categories like Bordeaux Supérieur.

Sales of lower-priced Bordeaux have fallen dramatically. The top wines still sell well at their sometimes astronomic prices, but consumers of lower-end Bordeaux have moved to New World alternatives. Part of the problem is labelling. Most Bordeaux wines are labelled by appellation. They are predominantly Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot, but they’re called Médoc or Saint-Emilion or Pomerol.

International consumers tend to know wine by varietal rather than appellation. If you like Merlot, you might just love wine from Saint-Emilion or Pomerol, but how would you know they’re mainly Merlot? The back label might tell you, but most people looking for wine hardly ever give the back label more than a glance. And they’re more likely to look at it only if they find the front label interesting.

It’s a pity, because a lot of Bordeaux is very good and affordable. I was reminded of that at a recent Toronto tasting of 86 French wines priced under $25. I expected the southern French wines to be good value — and most of them were. But I was equally impressed by the good value and quality offered by the wines from other regions, like Bordeaux, at slightly higher prices. Tasting them in company with wines from France’s upstart regions reminded me again that we shouldn’t overlook the others, like Bordeaux.

I review four today from the Saint-Emilion and Pomerol appellations. They’re distinctly Old World, with complexity, style, and restrained alcohol (not the 14-per-cent becoming popular elsewhere).

Should they be labelled ‘Merlot’ (or ‘Merlot-Cabernet’)? They might sell more that way, or they might just get lost among the thousands of other Merlots on the market. It’s a difficult decision for producers and the French wine industry as a whole, although expect to see more labels with both grape variety and appellation boldly stated.

Turning declining sales around won’t be easy, because French wine faces unprecedented competition. But we should by no means write France off. It turns out vast quantities of excellent quality, great value wines, at all price levels.

CHÂTEAU MONTLABERT SAINT-EMILION 2002 About 70 per cent Merlot (the rest being Cabernet Franc and Sauvignon), this offers complex dark fruit flavours, excellent balance, firm but drinking tannins, and a nice finish. Excellent with well-seasoned grilled red meat dishes. Alcohol 12.5 per cent; $23.80 a bottle. LCBO No. 179846.

CALVET RÉSERVE DES REMPARTS SAINT-EMILION 2003 Look for good, spicy, berry fruit flavours here (raspberry, ripe strawberry) along with Merlot’s typical plum flavours. It’s quite complex and well-balanced, and has light tannins. Pair it with a veal chop, roasted with tomatoes, zucchini and red pepper. Alcohol 12.5 per cent; $17.95 a bottle. LCBO No. 031898.

CHRISTIAN MOUEIX POMEROL 2000 Characteristic fruit (plum) flavours and soft texture in this mainly-Merlot Pomerol makes this really quite elegant. The 2000 vintage was a classic, and the fruit is ripe and focused, the tannins are fine, and this makes a perfect partner to grilled rack of lamb. Alcohol 12.5 per cent; $31.95 a bottle. LCBO No. 903013 (Vintages)

CHÂTEAU DES LAURETS PUISSEGUIN SAINT-EMILION 2000 From a small region next to Saint-Emilion and from an exceptional vintage in Bordeaux, this has very good, complex fruit character, with solid plum and dark berry flavours. Great balance and fine tannins, and an excellent match for rich red meat and game. Alcohol 13 per cent; $20.20 a bottle. LCBO No. 371401.

This article first appeared in the Ottawa Citizen on Wednesday, April 27, 2005.